How-To Videos

Mark shows us how to professionally insulate your campervan with Dynaliner and recycled plastic bottle insulation.

Mark JKs Mechanic shows us how easy it is to replace the front brake discs on a VW T5 & T6 Transporter. To find out more about T5 & T6 brake discs, pads and braking components, visit visit our T5 Braking Systems page Or our T6 Braking Systems page.How to Replace the Brake Discs on your VW T5 or VW T6 Here’s a complete guide to replacing the brake discs on your VW Transporter, from removing the old ones to installing your new brake discs. If you’re experiencing brake issues, or looking to upgrade your vehicle's braking system, we'll take you through the step-by-step process of removing and replacing brake callipers, allowing you to tackle this DIY project with confidence! Step 1: Getting everything prepared You’ll need to start by collecting up the tools and equipment you’ll need to get the job done, including a lever bar or screwdriver, socket wrench set, wire brush, copper grease, eye protection, and a 7mm Allen key. Make sure your vehicle is parked on a level surface and the engine is turned off before you start. Step 2: Removing the brake calliper Start by removing the spring attached to the brake calliper. Use gentle pressure to push and tap the spring towards the front of the van, until it pops out of its slot. Locate the plastic caps on the back of the calliper, which houses the slider bolts. Use a 7mm Allen key to loosen and remove these slider bolts.Once these slider bolts are removed, you can start detaching the brake calliper from the carrier. Before doing so, remove the retaining bolt for the brake disc using a lever bar or screwdriver. Step 3: Replacing the brake disc Use a 10mm spline tool to remove the retaining bolt for the brake disc.Next, tap the disc off using a suitable tool, ensuring you wear eye protection to prevent debris from entering your eyes.Clean the hub assembly with a wire brush and apply a thin layer of copper grease to prevent corrosion.You can now install the new brake disc, and secure it with the retaining bolt. Step 4: Reattaching the calliper Reattach the brake calliper carrier, and make sure that you follow the manufacturer's specifications for torque settings.Gently push the piston back into the calliper, taking as much time as you need to ensure you don’t cause any damage. Use the 7mm Allen key to secure the calliper back onto the calliper carrier with the slider bolts.Reinstall the plastic caps on the back of the calliper, and then reattach the spring to the brake calliper. Step 5: Final checks To finish up, double-check all connections and ensure everything is securely tightened. Repeat the process for the other side of the vehicle if necessary.Test the brakes to ensure they are functioning correctly before driving.Congratulations! You’re all done!{{widget type="Magento\CatalogWidget\Block\Product\ProductsList" template="Magento_CatalogWidget::product/widget/content/grid.phtml" anchor_text="" id_path="" show_pager="0" products_count="50" condition_option="category_ids" condition_option_value="442" type_name="Catalog Products List" conditions_encoded="^[`1`:^[`aggregator`:`all`,`new_child`:``,`type`:`Magento||CatalogWidget||Model||Rule||Condition||Combine`,`value`:`1`^],`1--1`:^[`operator`:`==`,`type`:`Magento||CatalogWidget||Model||Rule||Condition||Product`,`attribute`:`category_ids`,`value`:`442`^]^]" sort_order="position"}}Did you know that our colleagues at Just Kampers Insurance have been offering specialist vehicle insurance since 1998?You can get a great deal on insurance for a huge range of vehicles, from daily drivers to treasured campervans, and everything in between. Just Kampers Insurance works with a huge network of insurers to find you the best deals, and they're so confident that they'll send you a £50 Just Kampers gift voucher if they can't beat your like-for-like quote!Get an Online Insurance Quote Today{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="232" type_name="CMS Static Block"}}

Mark shows us how you can easily replace the coolant pipes on your VW T25.(00:00) If you own a T25 it's highly likely that within your ownership, you're going to need to replace the front-to-rear cooler pipes, now these front-to-rear coolant pipes transfer the coolant from the engine up to the radiator at the front and back to the engine again. Pipes on the early vans are made out of mild steel, are subsequently prone to corrosion. The later pipes are made out of plastic with a steel insert, also prone to corrosion. Our solution is to fit stainless steel replacement units. Our stainless steel replacement units come in two halves (00:31) this makes fitting less of a headache. The first thing we need to do is drain off the old coolant, disconnect the lowest hose from the water pump and then remove the bleed screw from the top of the radiator. This allows the air to flow and then the coolant to come out of the pipes. I then remove the clips from the plastic pipes to our radiator hoses to make the removal of the front-to-rear pipes easier. I actually cut them in half with a junior hacksaw just behind the fuel tank, and that allowed me to pull through the front part of the section of (01:01) the pipe via the spare wheel carrier as you can see I've matched up our new pipes against our old pipes so I know which side is which our replacement stainless steel coolant pipes can be fitted without dropping the fuel tank although this can be a bit challenging so if you prefer removing the fuel tank will make this job a lot easier that's our coolant pipes fitted and the cooling system filled up with correct antifreeze and bled for more how to's and hints and tips follow us on YouTube Facebook, Instagram and check us (01:34) out at justkampers.com, thanks for watching.

Mark shows us how you check the charging system on your classic VW Beetle. In this detailed how-to guide from Just Kampers, learn how to check and replace the charging system on a VW Beetle. This video walks you through testing the alternator, battery and electrical connections to ensure your Beetle’s charging system is working correctly, and shows how to swap out faulty components safely and correctly. Whether you’re maintaining a classic VW or troubleshooting electrical issues, this step-by-step tutorial gives you clear visuals and expert tips to help you get the job done with confidence.Video Transcript(00:00) Today I'm going to be taking a look at a 1970 Beetle that's got charging issues, the battery's been going flat over the last few weeks, so we're going to run through the charging system and see what we can find so let's check it out so the first thing I noticed is when I started the engine the generator light on the dashboard didn't extinguish it stayed on and even when I revved it it still stayed on this car should have had a dynamo from factory but has has been upgraded to an alternator so the first thing I'm going to do is check our (00:39) charge light wire from the alternator back to the dashboard, make sure that it works correctly. So, I'm going to disconnect our charge light wire, which is this one here, put our ignition on and then put it to earth onto the alternator body and make sure the light switches on and off at the dashboard end with the ignition switched on. I can now test our generator wire, so if I put this to Earth or the body of the alternator, it should switch the light on on the dashboard and off when I remove it, and on again, so this tells me that our line (01:09) is good from here all the way up to the dashboard to the bulb and that's sort of it's working correctly with my voltmeter and the engine running I can now test the output of our alternator foreign from the alternator initially looked quite good as soon as I loaded the circuit up by putting the headlights on you can see that the charge rate fell away quite quickly so we know for sure that this hasn't been charging whilst driving there are two more tests I need to do before I condemn the alternator and that's checked the fault drop across (01:53) the positive side of our alternator circuit and across the negative side of our alternator circuit and I'm going to do that with my voltmeter I've connected my multimeter from positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the alternator and I'm going to run the engine and put the headlights on and load the circuit up and I'm going to see if we get any voltage drop across that circuit I'm now going to carry out the same volt drop test for the negative side of the circuit so that's from the negative (02:19) terminal of the battery to the body of the alternator, headlights on, so both Vault drop checks tested out okay, so that confirms it's our alternator. So we need to remove and replace the alternator, generally replacing an alternator on a VW Beetle would be an engine out job but I'm going to show you how to do it in situ so the first thing we need to do is undo the 36 mil nut on the back of the fan housing and we get down there with our deep rich 36 mil and a medium-sized knuckle bar and then we need to hold the front of (03:05) the alternator pulley with the correct tool so take our 36mm on our knuckle bar we're going to put that down behind the fan housing and put it on the nut on the back of the alternator like so take our special tool so this actually sits onto the pulley and then we get good leverage and actually stop the pulley moving don't be tempted to put a screwdriver in here because it will just damage the edge and then you won't be able to undo it this tool does both six volt and 12 volt so it's a must if you're an air-cooled VW (03:40) owner I can hold the pulley in the face while I undo the nut on the back of the alternator it's quite tight but it does go good that's it moved now I can put the ratchet in there it's a bit shorter now I've cracked it off and then we can undo our nut on the back so the first thing we take off is the nut there's also shims and washers on there so we must be careful that we take them off and put them back in the right order so using the 21mm socket in our knuckle bar and again are fan pulley holding tool you can hold (04:25) that nice and tight and I can undo the front remove this 21mm nut and again we have to be careful because we've got shims and a washer here we don't want to drop those and lose those again important to remember what sequence they come off of so we can build it back how it was unless we're putting the new belt back obviously next we can remove the air filter so there's one screw under here on the clamp and then the other screw over here on the duct tin so I'm gonna pop a little bit of tape over the top of the carburettor just so we (05:11) don't drop anything inside it or get any dirt in there it's going to move the wiring out the way obviously be very gentle and careful it's quite old the wiring we don't want to start breaking it next we're just going to pop the HT leads out of their clips off of the fan housing so that's out of the way that one there [Music] so the next part which is quite tricky is to remove the fan housing bolts so there's four bolts that hold the alternator to the fan housing two at the top and two at the bottom as long as the (05:46) actual bolt heads as in 10mm bolt heads you can access those and there's obviously a bolt either side on the fan housing too so we can loosen the fan housing and the clamp that goes around the alternator and the pedestal and then we can get that all moving and we should be able to withdraw our alternator so I'll get that done to gain access to our last bolt which holds our fan housing together I'm going to remove the carburetor and that'll give us enough room to get down the bag yeah you hear you (06:28) we can now gently wiggle the carburetor off it's good and it hasn't actually torn the gasket either so that's good news so now I can access that last Bolt down the back here a little bit tricky see without it's much easier it's got him loose before we go too far I'm just going to put a bit of tape over our Inlet manifold so again we don't drop anything down there tape across there because the last thing I want to do is drop That bolt that I'm removing straight down the inlet manifold and if I don't cover it up it (07:08) will happen so let's see if I can finger that out yeah not quite so now with our last bolt out at the bottom I should be able to wiggle our alternator out so we've got our fan housing that's loose and obviously the cowl in Partners room is undone immediately pull it back also we need to remember that we need to pull off the actual fan from the other side we unbolt it lift that off oh there we go so now I just gently lift that out watch the wiring and there we go still with our shims this size as well so obviously be careful when you remove (07:46) because we've got shims go there between that and the fan the fan stays in there now and then we can fit our new alternator to our fan cover here and refit it so we've got our old unit here I'm going to remove the dry flange off the back as you see I've got a three-legged puller here that I'm just literally using my fingers actually to turn the pillar to to pull it off it's on a straight shaft with a woodruff key, it's a fairly easy as long as it's not corroded on there that's good pull the rest of that off yep so we need to swap that over onto (08:19) our new unit uh check that the space is the same and take the Wood Rough key out also so with my little toffee hammer and a small screwdriver should be able to just tap that woodruff key out so good I need to do the same on the front as well we're going to make sure we can get that Woodruff key out here well for the spacer and then we just check the spaces on the new unit we've got to make sure that they're the same depth  with our woodruff key in position we're gonna slide on our dry flange like so, lovely, (09:11) now we just need to put our spacer and woodruff key on the other side so we pop our original spacer back on and then put our little woodruff key and ready to put the belt drive back on that's it so before I put the New Year back on I've got our flats located on the fan horizontal and the same on the actual drive flange but also I need to remember to put on our original shins so I'm going to do that now so our original shims are going to go on we may need to change this but we're going to start where we left off (09:46) bolt it all up together and make sure that our fan doesn't touch our fan housing so that's our three shims on we should be able to slide that gently into position so the bottom goes in first and then I'm going to have to lift the fan onto the alternator from the other side so our new alternator is bolted onto the fan housing with its four bolts the two at the top and the two at the bottom it's resting on the pedestal also I've put the fan on the back and I've put the fan nut on the back to secure it put the front pulley on so I could (10:20) tighten the rear fan nut up which I've done and at this point we just want to make sure that when we spin our alternator our fan doesn't touch our fan housing so let's try that beautiful so we've got our clearance we've used our original shimming and it's worked out right if you are replacing your alternator and you find that you're just starting to scuff the fan housing you might want to add a shim or take a shim off so at this point you'd need to take it off and do that again but we can forge ahead now and get (10:49) the whole thing back together, so just about to refit the carburettor um this gasket on the bottom of the base of the carburetor came off clean and good and hadn't broken away from the carburettor so I'm happy to put that back on I've just put a little tiny bit of grease on the surface just to help settle it back in if you did damage your gasket obviously make sure you change that gasket last thing you want to be doing is drawing air between the inlet manifold and the carburetor because it will just will not run right at all so (11:38) back in place, we can get that all bolted up, so there we have it. There's how to replace an alternator on a 1970 Beetle without taking the engine in. For more hints and tips, follow us on YouTube, Facebook and Instagram and don't forget to check us out at justkampers.com. Thanks for watching.

Tim from JK HQ uses his T25 as a daily driver and was noticing it was struggling to start, especially in the cold weather. So Mark took it into the workshop to find out what was causing the problem. It turns out it was the glow plugs! Watch the video to see how he fixed the problem.

Mark shows us how to replace a clutch cable on a VW T2 Bay.

Mark shows us how to change a speedo cable on a T25. (00:00) The next job to carry out on Tim's T25 is to sort out the noisy speedo. So to fix that problem we're going to replace the cable the first thing we need to do is gain access to the back of the speedo here so we need to remove this top part of the binnacle cover now to do that it's on to clips at the back and then pulls forward with a bit of pressure on the top pushing backwards you can actually lift it out the clips quite easily. I'm going to slide it forward, and off it comes, then we're going to disconnect our cable that(00:30) goes to our brake reservoir brake fluid reservoir so we can undo that carefully remove the plastic and then all we need to do is to remove the cable from the back of the speeder if you're not confident in getting your hand down there and pulling the speedo cable off you can undo the screws and gently move the whole Pinnacle forward you can just literally squeeze one of the lugs and it lifts up the lock and off you slide it off so the speedo cable actually comes down through to the front wheel here on the near side(00:57) and the cable actually comes through the center of the wheel hub and out to the grease cover on the outside the grease cover has got a square drive that the cable actually fits into and then an e-clip secures the cable in place so all we need to do is remove that e-clip and we can withdraw the cable all the way from The Hub so with the aid of a small screwdriver we can just lift that e-clip off and out there we go careful not to lose him and then our cable will then just push through the cap so I can withdraw the cable from the other side(01:26) so with a firm pillow on the cable I should be able to pull it through that Hub sometimes they're a bit sticky there we go that's out so now our Cable's withdrawn from our Hub the next thing we need to do is drop the spare wheel down that will give us access to where the cable goes through into the cab excellent so now we should be able to withdraw the cable up through into the cab keep going that goes off down as you can see just about where it goes through under there so we'll pull that through and then we can feed the new one back down through(02:02) this way also so before we slide our new cable into position we're going to remove the Grille first that'll give us some access to the back of the dash and make it a lot easier to get our cable down through so these are on little half turn clips cable and I've put a little bit of electrical tape around the end just to sort of prevent any hang ups on the way down the grommets into position and move that further up that's ready to go so all I need to do now is just feed it through our bulkhead and I can go the other side(02:37) where we've removed the grill and then manipulate the cable into position and run it down to where we need to now I've actually got the speedo cable a little bit jammed up here beyond the headlamp so next thing I'm going to do is just pop the headlamp forward and then I should be able to retrieve the cable there we go oh lovely so now I can grab hold of the cable put it through it so with the headlight pulled forward we can make sure that our weatherproof grommet is seated correctly use the end of the cable I can just(03:10) start pulling it through lovely so before we go any further we just need to remove that piece of uh electrical tape that we put on the end to help us get down to where we are now I don't want to be putting that through the Hub so let's remove that so all I need to do now is feed that through the center of the Hub and pop a little bit of grease on the cable this will help us slide it through our hub center there we go slid through the Hub so as you can see the cable's just about to come through our grease cap so I'm(03:46) just going to push the cable from behind and then Aid it through guide it through with our little screwdriver yep there we go it pops through and now I can get our re-clip on that'll stop him falling back through carefully get our Eclipse started and then push them on with a her long nose pliers there it's clipped on Lovely brilliant I'm just going to check our cable routing just past our spare wheel carrier and then we get the spare wheel back in and get that up just make sure it is in the right position and not(04:19) getting caught anywhere I've just secured with the cable tie just to keep it in the right position [Music] so our last piece of the puzzle is to pop the dashboard back together we've already clipped on our Speedo cable onto the back of the speedo here so now we can we can remove our brake level sensor and pop them back in once we've got our plastic protector back in and then when we pop our Pinnacle cover back on the front goes in first and locates into some little Clips there and then there's just two clips at the back.(04:52) So now we just push the two back, and that's it, so for more hints and tips and how healthy videos follow us on YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and check us out at justkampers.com. Thanks for watching. Thank you.

Mark, our JK Mechanic show how to service your VW T6 Transporter at home. To find out more about our T5 & T6 Transporter Service Kits, visit our Service Kits page. How to Service Your VW T6 at Home Here’s our guide to servicing your VW T6 Transporter yourself, at home. It’s not nearly as daunting as it might seem, especially if you’re already comfortable with working on older Volkswagens. Many people will look at a modern VW Transporter and shy away from taking on jobs like a service as they can be quite a bit more complex than a classic VW, but you really don’t need to be intimidated. In this handy guide, we'll take you through the different steps to servicing and inspecting your T6, to help you keep it on the road and ready for adventure.   Step One: Getting everything prepared Once you’ve got all your tools laid out, get your engine warmed up for a few minutes to make sure that the oil is good and warm when you come to drain it later.Before you can drain the oil, you’ll need to use a 13mm socket to remove the undertray. Make sure you set the bolts to one side, as you’ll want to apply some grease to them before they go back on later.  Step Two: Draining and flushing the oil With the undertray removed, you can use a 19mm socket to remove the sump plug nut. Make sure that you’ve got an oil catch tray or something similar for the oil to flow into, or you’ll end up with a massive mess! The oil will take a while to drain, so you can move on to the next step and come back later when the oil has finished draining. Step Three: Inspecting the brakes and suspension Next up, you’ll be taking a look at the brakes and suspension. You’ll need to get your Transporter up onto axle stands, making sure to do so carefully and line them up with the jacking points. Once this is done, remove the wheels so you can inspect the brakes, suspension, and steering components for any signs of wear or damage.When you’re happy that everything is as it should be with your braking system and suspension, secure the wheels back in place and lower your T6 back down. Step Four: Checking the air filter and engine fluid levels Moving over to the engine bay, take a look at the power steering fluid, washer fluid, and anti-freeze, and top them up if you need to. You should also check the air filter and oil filter to see if they need to be replaced. Step Five: Changing the oil and replacing the oil The oil should have finished draining by now, so replace the sump nut and top your T6 up with three litres of fresh oil. Give it a moment to settle, and then fire the engine up for a few minutes. This will flush out any dirt or contaminants, so we’ll drain this oil again once we’ve let the engine run. You can repeat this process if you need to, using around a litre of oil the second time around, but once you’re happy that you’ve gotten rid of any contaminants or nastiness, you can fit the sump plug nut and a new washer. Before you secure the under tray, add some grease to the thread on the bolts which hold it in place, which will prevent them from seizing and making the job much harder in future! When you’re topping the oil back up, make sure you add the fresh new oil slowly, and give it some time to settle before checking that you’ve put the right amount in. Step Six: Final checks With all of that done, take some time to check and lubricate door hinges, inspect wipers, washers, and lights, and ensure all controls are functioning correctly. Double-check that you’ve torqued up the wheel nuts correctly, put your tools away, and relax! You’re all done! Congratulations! You've just serviced your T6! With clean oil, properly functioning components, and regular checks, your Transporter will be ready for adventure for years to come. {{widget type="Magento\CatalogWidget\Block\Product\ProductsList" template="Magento_CatalogWidget::product/widget/content/grid.phtml" anchor_text="" id_path="" show_pager="0" products_count="10" condition_option="sku" condition_option_value="J19929, J20037, J20036, J19588, J48766, J48772" type_name="Catalog Products List" conditions_encoded="^[`1`:^[`aggregator`:`all`,`new_child`:``,`type`:`Magento||CatalogWidget||Model||Rule||Condition||Combine`,`value`:`1`^],`1--1`:^[`operator`:`()`,`type`:`Magento||CatalogWidget||Model||Rule||Condition||Product`,`attribute`:`sku`,`value`:`J19929, J20037, J20036, J19588, J48766, J48772`^]^]" sort_order="position_by_sku"}}Did you know that our colleagues at Just Kampers Insurance have been offering specialist vehicle insurance since 1998? You can get a great deal on insurance for a huge range of vehicles, from daily drivers to treasured campervans, and everything in between. Just Kampers Insurance works with a huge network of insurers to find you the best deals, and they're so confident that they'll send you a £50 Just Kampers gift voucher if they can't beat your like-for-like quote!Get an Online Insurance Quote Today{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="232" type_name="CMS Static Block"}}

Mark shows us how you fit a to fit a whale submersible water pump 10 Litre (12v) to a van conversion.

Mark shows us how you fit a Gas Locker to a van conversion.

Where to fit your Fiamma Expansion Tank A20(00:00) So the Fiamma AC accumulator is a real easy fit, It just fits literally in line between the pump and the tank and it comes with a like a right angled fitting and a straight fit in and these are already pre-pressurized so this is the little valve like a Shrader valve car valve style, um, and these are pre-filled from factory I think to about 9 to 13 PSI, something like that, um, so, you can adjust that if you wanted to change the flow of your rate of well depending on how big the tap is. I think it does say you can adjust it, but I'll be leaving that(00:33) well alone because it works perfectly.

In this video, we dive into the world of van conversion electrics with the experts at Just Kampers. From understanding the basics of 12V and 240V systems to practical tips and advice for wiring your camper van, this comprehensive guide is a must-watch for anyone looking to tackle their own electrical setup. Join us as we break down the process step-by-step and empower you to create a safe and efficient electrical system for your van conversion project. Don't miss out on this essential knowledge from Just Kampers!

Mark shows us how easy it is to fit a household hob & sink to a van conversion! Sprinter Project Episode 8(00:00) So when Ben and Anna decided to uh pick their hob in their sink for the camper van they actually picked household units, which is fine, they look lovely but pose a small problem for me in the fact that I thought I was going to be fitting campervan stuff, which is fine, so there are a few differences with our household tap and our household hob but I'll run through those with you because it's actually easier than you think. So let's take a look at the sink because it's actually really good, so if I remove the cover that Ben's (00:28) lovely other half made, it's a beautiful job Ben, but this tap I have to say is pretty cool check this pretty powerful okay so let me show you how I've done that so if we start at the back here our water source as you can see we've got our 70 litre Fiamma tank here originally when we spoke to Ben and Anna we were going to have something small like a 12 litre tank obviously With that big tap it's a no-go so we've gone for 70 litre, we've got a Fiamma filler here so if I take the cap out you can put your hose in and it fills the tank and the great (01:05) thing is it's obviously got a breather in this cap as well so I don't have to have a separate breather on my tank so there we go we pop that back in and as we follow down you have to drill a hole into these tanks to allow the water to go in and obviously then drill through these as well this is our little clear bit of pipe that we've put on this gives us an indication of our level as you can see that's our level there now the tank itself comes on its own with fittings and that is it it doesn't have all the pipe work so we have all (01:35) the pipe work here at stock at Jess campus as well so this is a 40mm internal diameter reinforced pipe which is perfect for our water feed inwards and this is just a clear bit of 8mm pipe here and then at the bottom we've got our this is quite high pressure hose actually our water hose this is half inch I obviously just clipped on with our jubilee clips here is one of the outlets that comes with the tank you get a 90 degree outlet or a straight one you have to drill through the tank and then there's a rubberised washer that fits on (02:06) the inside and you basically do the nut up then I've used our half inch high pressure water pipe with a jubilee clip onto our fitting here around to just an on off tap here and then this goes further forward down to our pump so let's go and check the pump out so I fitted the shore flow pump around the back here out of the way and it's unlike rubber fitting so it tries to eliminate some of the noise when it's actually pumping along now that type of pump is like a pressure type of pump and what that does is pressurize the whole system (02:37) and then when we open our tap obviously then water flows on like a normal type camper van pump setup you'd have a micro switch in your tap and as soon as you opened you tap that micro switch would then turn the pump on but this is done as I say as a pressure setup also in this line we've got this Fiamma accumulator now all that does is just smooth the water flow out the tap basically otherwise it could be pulsating from that the way that pump works but with that fitted it makes the tap flow really smoothly the Wastewater out the way out (03:12) it comes right so the configuration we've got here obviously because it was a household tap we had a hot and a cold Inlet obviously we're only running cold so what I've done is just tped off and run to both sides of that tap so it doesn't matter what orientation the tap's in it fires water out anytime so the Fiamma accumulator is a real easy fit It just fits literally in line between the pump and the tank and it comes with a like a right angled fitting and a straight fit in and these are already pre-pressurized so (03:41) this is the little valve like a Schrader valve car valve Style um and these are pre-filled from Factory I think to about 9 to 13 PSI something like that so you can adjust that if you wanted to change the flow of your rate of well depending on how big the tap is I think it does say you can adjust it but I'm leaving that well alone because it works perfectly and then the final path for our water is obviously through the sink waste into our waste uh water tank here now this is a real simple setup this is what came with this ink (04:14) actually this sort of corrugated pipe I've decided just to pop it straight into the top here there's enough breather around the top here for it to let the air out as the water goes in and the great thing about it is obviously this has got a handle so it's really easy to empty obviously that's a 25 litre waist so it wouldn't fit all of our 70 litres of water in there but the idea is you're possibly not going to put all your 70 litres down the sink you might hang it out the door and wash your feet that was I think Ben and Anna's (04:41) idea but the nice thing about it is only 25 litres so you just empty it more regularly that's all but it's clear so you can keep an eye on the level perfect that works really well so to make that work all you need is that pressure type pump so you've got constant pressure in your water system the accumulator to make it smooth a bit of pipe work and obviously a reasonably sized tank so that leads us to our hob now the hob that Ben chose was a 240 volt hob because he liked the look of it fair enough my side of it obviously I would love I (05:17) would have loved to have a 12 volt hob because that would have made my life a lot easier and we could use the ignition side so we opted to keep it simple and not use the 240 ignition because obviously I would have had to put an inverter in just to literally run the hob ignition which would have been a lot of money and we weren't going down that route so keep it simple they're just going to have to use a hob lighter that's it now the gas side of it obviously we still had to go from household gas to camper style gas now so our campervan (05:47) piping is actually eight mil and our household is what's called half inch bsp so I had to get a special converter A fitting that would bolt to our half inch bsp with an eight mil compression fitting simple and that was done and then I could run R8 mil pipe down to our gas locker and use our standard gas bottle so this is our very own gas Locker it's completely airtight obviously so if there was a leak with inside of this it would stay in here and not um come out into the van now it's got a regulator inside and then into our 8mm (06:23) compression fitting and then our pipe runs all the way up here nice and neatly straight to our up and our eight mil compression fitting pipe fits along here to this fitting here so this is our bsp to eight mil compression fitting this is what you would need if you were converting a household hob into the camper van gas pipes so that's our utilities finished I've got a beautiful hob and a beautiful sink admittedly it wasn't what I was expecting so Ben you got your wish you've got your beautiful household stuff in here obviously gave me a little (06:55) bit of a headache for a short period of time as you can see the camper has really taken shape now um I don't think it's going to be too long before we're going to be doing the total reveal you know anyway stay tuned um we'll see you next time thanks for watching.

Lewis has been complaining that there has been the smell of petrol coming from the front of the car whilst driving. So Mark sets to investigate the issue and notices the fuel inlet pipes & breathers need replacing!

How To Factory Reset Your JKF50 12-volt Compressor Fridge-Freezer

How to upgrade the daytime running lights on your VW T6 TransporterHow to fit our brand new T6.1 headlight upgrade to your VW Transporter.  To find out more about our T6.1 Headlight upgrades, visit our Lighting Upgrades page.How to Upgrade Your VW T6.1 with New Daytime Running Lights We’ve put together this quick guide to help you fit a new set of upgraded daytime running lights to your VW T6.1. This is a pretty quick and easy upgrade, and will help you see and be seen while you’re driving your Transporter, especially in poor weather or at night. We'll walk you through the installation process step-by-step, to make it easy to upgrade to your T6.1’s lighting system. Step 1: Understanding the options Before diving into the installation process, you’ll want to take a look at the different options available. There are two versions of upgraded headlamps available here at Just Kampers. You can either go with gloss black, or gunmetal grey. Both units work exactly the same, but have a different colour on the interior of the headlight, so your choice will come down to which suits your Transporter the best.   Step 2: Removing the bumper To access and replace the headlamps, you'll need to remove the front bumper. Start by removing the poppers from the top of the bumper and then remove the screws which are underneath it and on the sides of the wheel well. Take your time to ensure all fixings are removed without causing damage to the bumper, and set the screws aside as you’ll need them later when it’s time to put the bumper back on! Step 3: Disconnecting the grille With the bumper removed, you'll gain access to the clips and fixings holding the grille in place. Carefully detach the grille from the bumper, ensuring not to damage anything as you do so. If your vehicle has front parking sensors and fog lights, remember to disconnect the multi-plug before proceeding. Again, set all of the fixings and clips to one side, so you can reattach the grille later on. Step 4: Unbolting the original headlamps Once the grille is removed, you can access the screws holding the headlamps in place. Use a screwdriver to remove the top and bottom fixings of the headlamp, and be cautious when unplugging the headlamp connectors to avoid any damage to the wiring. You won’t need to keep hold of your original headlamp fixings, as you’ll get new ones with your upgraded headlamps. Step 5: Installing the New Headlamps With the old headlamps removed, it's time to install the upgraded versions! Start by plugging in the connectors and positioning the headlamps correctly so they line up and sit in the aperture nicely. Secure the headlamps in place by reattaching the top and bottom fixings using the screws provided. Take this opportunity to make sure that your new headlights are working correctly before you put everything else back together. If you run into any unexpected issues, then get in touch and we’ll do our best to help. Step 6: Reassembling the bumper Once the new headlamps are installed and you’re happy with how they're working, it's time to reassemble the bumper. Carefully align the front bumper with the vehicle's body and reattach all poppers, screws, and fixings. Luckily, you set them all aside carefully earlier! Make sure that everything is securely in place before you move on to the final step. Step 7: Testing and final adjustments Before hitting the road, it's crucial to test the functionality of the new headlamps. Double-check that all lights, including daytime running lights and sequential indicators, are working correctly. Make any necessary adjustments to their alignment, to make sure that you can see the road ahead clearly and won’t be dazzling other road users. Step 8: Enjoy! With your VW T6.1 equipped with upgraded headlamps, your Transporter will look even cooler and you’ll have an easier time seeing and being seen on the road.{{widget type="Magento\CatalogWidget\Block\Product\ProductsList" template="Magento_CatalogWidget::product/widget/content/grid.phtml" anchor_text="" id_path="" show_pager="0" products_count="5" condition_option="sku" condition_option_value="J48162, J48163" type_name="Catalog Products List" conditions_encoded="^[`1`:^[`aggregator`:`all`,`new_child`:``,`type`:`Magento||CatalogWidget||Model||Rule||Condition||Combine`,`value`:`1`^],`1--1`:^[`operator`:`()`,`type`:`Magento||CatalogWidget||Model||Rule||Condition||Product`,`attribute`:`sku`,`value`:`J48162, J48163`^]^]" sort_order="position_by_sku"}}Did you know that our colleagues at Just Kampers Insurance have been offering specialist vehicle insurance since 1998?You can get a great deal on insurance for a huge range of vehicles, from daily drivers to treasured campervans, and everything in between. Just Kampers Insurance works with a huge network of insurers to find you the best deals, and they're so confident that they'll send you a £50 Just Kampers gift voucher if they can't beat your like-for-like quote!Get an Online Insurance Quote Today{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="232" type_name="CMS Static Block"}}

Mark shows you how to protect your VW for the winter by coating it in Cavity Wax.

Mark shows us how easy it is to fit an Engine Bay Fire Suppression System to your vehicle.

How to fit curtains to your van conversionHow to Fit Curtains to Your Van Conversion is a step-by-step, practical guide showing you how to properly fit curtains in your campervan build. In this video from Just Kampers, you’ll see how to attach and position rear tailgate and side-door curtains on a VW T5 (2003 onward), helping you add privacy, insulation and camper comfort. With clear instructions and close-up shots of the fitting process, this tutorial makes installing camper van curtains simple, even for first-time converters.Video Transcript00:00These are curtains for our sliding door, and for the window opposite, they come as a pair in the pack, which is really handy, so we're going to crack on and get these done. They're not black and gray the black is for the outside and the gray's is for the inner, this is just the way they've been wrapped up, it's in our curtain kit if you look on the back of the rail you can see a sticker, now this sticker denotes exactly where this curtain fits and as you can see the layout of our vehicle this is for this window, so we're fitting our rail obviously. 00:27we're going to position it so it's nice and even and sits lovely as it does there become a little bit inboard from our edge here, oh just allow the curtain to come over past the window here like so but one thing I will mention is when you're trying to drill through these and drill through this carpet it's really difficult, so this carpet will just get wrapped up in your drill and get right around the end of the drill bit and it can blunt drills, if you keep going so what you need to do is obviously once we've got that in place which is where 00:58We're doing it now, I'm gonna do it with a small, sharp pokey instrument, you can do it with a very small Phillips screwdriver if you want to. I'm actually going to try and poke a hole through the carpet and then wiggle it around to try and get the carpet to move out of the way so when we drill we're just drilling the metal and not wrapping up the carpet around the outside and again it's a good idea to leave the rail there on place so that helps preventing the carpet getting pulled into the drill bit on our drill. 01:31put it here I'm just going to drill really carefully, make sure it's going the right way there we go I'm just gonna back that out of there because the house got a bit of carpet on it okay so what we're going to do I'm just going to take a blade and just cut that carpet off and go again right let's get a screw in there and get that fixed and then we can do the others these are little brass type screws they're quite soft so 2.5mm 02:10is exactly the right size you need to be able to screw these in. I'm going to go through again if you feel it's going really tight, then it's probably because the carpet's got bound around it, and you need to back out and start again, because it will snap the head off the screw otherwise. So that's our position. Next thing we're going to do is do the same again to draw the other holes, try and get the carpet out of the way so it doesn't get wrapped around our drill, so both our top and bottom rails are fitted. Next is to slide our curtain so we've 02:36got our little toggles on our curtain, and we just basically slide those into our rail one at a time, like so, pop them out once they're all on, just slide them out of the way, and I can put my little secure end in to stop them from folding out, and then we'll stretch down to the bottom ones. As you see, the curtain's on really cool. We're just going to put our little end cap on to stop it sliding off, and then we can put our poppers on, that's this one done. We just got to do the other side, so we're going to hold that there 03:04drill through and get a screw in it. It's going to install our poppers to hold the curtain back. Now, you can do the same trick as we did on the rear end, put a piece of masking tape down, push it in and leave an impression, or you can just do it by eye. I mean, I know that roughly I need to be there, so I can hold my popper there and put it back, keep hold of it and put your drill in it, okay, careful not to over-tighten these because you can end up pulling the screw straight through the popper. They don't have to be mega tight, but just nip it up 03:39nice, feels good, so as you can see, this one's finished. Looks really cool, got our little tie backs, I'm gonna do these like so, and then we've got proper curtain coverage, excellent, so we can do the sliding door one, it's much the same, but obviously we don't have to worry about drilling through the carpet, so we're all finished on the sliding door side. Really cool, so we have our curtains all the way around now, much the same as the other side. Obviously, it was a lot easier because we didn't have carpet to contend with on the door, so we 04:11could drill straight into our metal, so all our curtains that we have for our windows are all much the same idea of fitting, so it's a rail top and bottom, slide them on with the toggles and then you fit your ends on to stop the curtain sliding off, very easy process.

Mark shows us how you fit a Fiamma F80s awning to your van conversion.

Mark shows us how To Check & Change your T25 Exhaust

Mark shows us how to fit a roof light vent and fan to a van conversion.

In this tutorial from Just Kampers, we show you step-by-step how to replace a ball joint on a T25 camper van. Whether you're experiencing steering issues or just need to replace a worn out ball joint, this video will guide you through the process with clear instructions and helpful tips. Keep your T25 running smoothly and safely with this easy-to-follow tutorial. Subscribe to our channel for more VW camper van maintenance and repair videos.

Mark shows us how to fit a fuel solenoid cut off Fire & anti theft switch.