How to fix a Beetle oil leak & clutch replacement.
Mark shows us how to fix a Beetle oil leak and how to replace the clutch.
(00:00) Welcome back to Just Kampers. Now today I'm going to be investigating an oil leak on a 1967 Beetle. So I took an initial look and there seems to be quite a lot of oil around the oil switch, so I cleaned it up, we've replaced the oil switch and then we still had oil emerging, so a closer look I could see the oil running down behind the fan cowling and onto our engine assembly so unfortunately it's engine out because I think the oil leak's coming from inside the fan housing. The only thing inside the fan housing that can cause
(00:34) our oil leak is the oil cooler, so that's where we're going to start. So I'm going to take the engine out so our engines removed and our fan housing is removed, now it's really simple to remove these engines from the car they're only held onto the gearbox via four studs, so we have one either side at the top a stud comes through here and here with a 17mm headed nut and washer so we remove those and you can gain access from behind our fan cowling when it's in situ. There's two studs that come through here and they protrude through our gearbox
(01:13) bell housing again with a 17mm headed nut and a washer on there. The next thing to remove would be our heater cables so we have ones one each side remove and also remove our heater ducting, then all we have left is our fuel pipe so we disconnect him from our fuel filter and that's pretty much the back end done. Then as we come back around to our engine bay side remove the front part of your tinware, then we have wiring that comes across to our alternator, which would be situated here again. Undo the wiring, just move it
(01:48) out of the way, disconnect the battery first obviously, because you have a live there there's a throttle cable that comes through our heater through our fan cowling to our carburettor so we remove him and withdraw him from behind and there's a conduit that goes through the fan housing so we pull that out too with the fan and remove. I can gain access to our oil cooler, which is situated here now, as you can see it's pretty oily, and we've had oil leaking out of this oil cooler and running down this side and running down this side too that was
(02:22) where I could see the oil leak from when it was in the car, so I'm going to remove this and have a look and see why it was leaking. I've undone the nuts there's a nut at the front there and then there's two further around the back underneath, I've undone those too, so let's get the cooler off and see why it was leaking I know we have left is our oil switch wiring so we disconnect our oil switch wiring, pull him out and then our ignition feed to our coil and that's it for wiring and then we can wiggle him out, so we gently start
(02:56) pulling them forward and drop him down, he can do that on either we've got a stand with some wheels on it goes up and down or you can use a trolley Jack. I've cleaned and checked our oil cooler and I'm really happy with the cooler itself and that we found the leak at the seals so you can test these yourselves, or you can send them away to get them tested you can fill them with compressed air and see if they're leaking again can be quite difficult if you're in any doubt whatsoever then just replace your oil cooler there's no point putting back
(03:31) an oil cooler that could potentially leak so I've left this training for some time and it's nice and clean and it's not leaking, so we can get this back together with our fresh seals all nice and clean and ready to put our fan housing back on just disconnect these HT leads and get these out of the way first, so take a bit of clearance sliding over our oil cooler and get our alternator past the carburetor. Making sure our tinware goes the right side so there's two fixings on either side that goes through the tinware with a
(04:26) captive nut and then there's this clamp this clamp goes around our alternator and to the alternator pedestal so we just slide that back now I can do that up [Music] one thing is worth a mention is these warm-up flaps now these have been disconnected so they're left open all the time but yours you may still have your control rod and your bellows that controls these warm-up flaps. Now, if you have,you'll have to disconnect your bellows from underneath. It'll be situated under here with a 13mm headed bolt, you'd have to undo that before you
(05:22) could take your fan housing off so while our engine is out I'm going to replace the clutch, so I've got our special tool in here which bolts through and holds our flywheel in place if you haven't got a special tool then you can use like a bent valve or something else to jam in between the flywheel and say the lower stud for instance that just keeps that solid so I can undo the clutch. Now our clutch assembly is removed, we can take a closer look at our flywheel, make sure we haven't got any high spots
(06:03) make sure we haven't got any cracks give it a good clean up before we fit our new clutch [Music] first thing I'm going to do is speed a little bit of Grease into our spigot bearing not loads of Grease because we don't want it flung everywhere all over the clutch a little tiny bit on my finger I'm just going to work that into the bearing it's a roller pin type bearing so it needs a bit of lubrication in there so okay that's the grease done okay let's get our clutch kit on so our center plate it does only go one way and
(06:40) actually written on the front of the clutch here it says gearbox side so gearbox size this side, so it's going to fit in there like that we're going to loosely put the bolts in
(07:46) now I'm not going to put any pressure on this pressure plate yet I'm literally just one in the boxing so they touch because what I want to do is be able to center our center plate using a clutch alining tool and then we can tighten up around the outside, clutch still moves yeah okay so we slide our clutch aligning tool in, now our clutch aligning tool will locate with the bearing in the back and locate with the center friction plate and line up there we go lovely so that's it so that's our clutch centered and now we can do up around the
(08:51) outside, we need to keep it nice and even so if you want to you can use a torque wrench or you can do it by hand the last piece of our clutch puzzle is our release bearing now I put a little bit of copper grease on the ears here where it sits and on our splines the release bearings held on with a clip a sprung type clip see if I can show you this side so we've got one side in the side pushes in and then just simply twist it round the back and it clips into place just double check this in the right place yeah it looks good
(09:56) with our oil cooler seals replaced, my new clutch kit on, release bearing on the car, we're ready to put the engine in, well that's that job finished. Road tested leak-free, very pleased! For more how-to videos or hints and tips visit us at JustKampers.com or follow us on Facebook or YouTube.